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                  1. Support
                  2. Original Prusa i3 MK2.5S
                  3. Printer maintenance
                  4. Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)
                   

                  Contents

                  • Typical issue (false clog)
                  • Accessing the Bondtech gear
                  • Rotating the motor's shaft
                  • Clean Bondtech gear

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                  Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear

                  (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)

                  Relevant for

                  MK2.5
                  MK2.5S
                  MK3
                  MK3S
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                  The Bondtech gears have a lot of pulling force. They might seem secure, but unless properly tightened, on the flat side of the motor's shaft, they can come loose and remain stationary around the spinning shaft. This might only be intermittent at first, acting like under extrusion, but the gear will continue to loosen and/or slide out of alignment with the filament path.

                  Typical issue (false clog)

                  This might appear as a clog at first, but you can see the motor axle rotating fully, and there is no clicking sound, which is common during a hotend clog. The filament is not moving at all and when pulled out, it does not look like it has been ground by the gear, hence the name "false or ghost clog".

                  It can be helpful to draw a line on the radius of the axle, to see if it spins or not.

                  Accessing the Bondtech gear

                  Start by getting out your 1,5 mm and 2.5 mm Allen keys. Using the 2.5 mm Allen key, release the spring-tensioned idler-screw(s) completely and open the idler door. It is 1 on the Original Prusa MK3S & MK3S+ (left picture) and two on the Original Prusa MK3 (right picture). The MMU2S extruder has one screw, but some additional parts.

                  Original Prusa MK3S & MK3S+ / MK3.5Original Prusa MK3 (Non S/+-upgrade)

                  On the Original Prusa MMU2S / MMU3, you must remove the whole idler door (blue arrows), by removing 
                  the screw acting as its hinge (red arrow).

                  On the Original Prusa MK3S, remove the single screw on the top of the extruder to remove the fil. sensor cover to open the idler door all the way.

                  Rotating the motor's shaft

                  You will now have access to the Bondtech gears. With the idler door open, we will check if the Bondtech gear is secured on the flat side of the motor shaft and if the gear is out of alignment with the filament path. We do not recommend moving the motor shaft by hand. The best is to start rotation from the LCD menu:

                  • Preheat the nozzle from the LCD-menu -> Setting -> Temperatures -> Nozzle -> 180 °C. The firmware will not let you manually move the extruder motor unless heated to at least 175 °C.
                  The nozzle is now hot! Be careful so you do not burn yourself.
                  • Navigate the LCD menu to Settings -> Move axis -> Extruder, and you can now spin the extruder motor, with the knob on the LCD panel. 

                  Make sure the flat side of the motor shaft is visible (red lines), aligned with the black set-screw on the pulley (purple arrow), and that pulley grooves are aligned with the filament (green line).

                  The set-screw may be stuck due to rust or Loctite. If you have to use a lot of force you may risk stripping the head of the screw. Consult with our technical support before you use excessive force.

                  You can use a piece of filament, inserted from the top (blue arrow), to check alignment. Then use the 1.5 mm Allen wrench or your nail to move the Bondtech gear into position, before securing the set screw.

                  Clean Bondtech gear

                  Open the Extruder idler. You can see how to do it in our assembly manuals, section Extruder idler parts preparation, in the E-axis assembly chapter. Clear any left-over filament, rust, or dust with a brush and inspect both gears.

                  It is recommended to use a Prusa Lubricant or a PTFE-based grease. However, be careful not to overuse it, as it tends to accumulate dust particles over time. This procedure should be done roughly every 3-6 months, depending on how often you are using the printer.

                  Put the lubricant on the Bondtech extruder gear teeth. Apply it only to the toothed part as seen in the right photo above. If you apply it to the whole gear, it will be unable to grab filament properly!

                  You can also inspect the needle bearings that are inside and clean them with a brush. However, these do not need any special care, just make sure that both of them are properly inserted.

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                  Topics

                  • Using the printer
                    • Printer maintenance
                      • Changing or replacing the nozzle (MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+, MK3.5/S)
                      • i3 Printer Regular Maintenance
                      • Testing safety features (MK3/MK3S)
                      • How to update firmware (MK3S+/MK3S/MK3)
                      • How to replace a heatbreak/heaterblock/heatsink (MK3/MK2.5)
                      • How to remove a stripped screw
                      • SD cards and USB drives
                      • Adjusting belt tension (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, MK3/S/+)
                      • Hotend disassembly & heatbreak stuck in the heatsink
                      • Removing filament from extruder manually
                      • How to replace a hotend thermistor (MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3.5/S, MK3S/+, MK2.5S)
                      • Firmware updating (MK2.5S/MK2S)
                      • How to replace a print fan (MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • How to replace a hotend (MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • How to replace an IR-sensor (MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • How to replace a P.I.N.D.A. sensor (MK3S)
                      • How to replace SuperPINDA (MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • How to replace bearings on the Y-axis (MK3S+)
                      • How to replace bearings on the X-axis (MK3S+)
                      • How to replace a hotend heater (MK3S/MK3S+)
                      • Community translations
                      • How to replace the xBuddy board (MK4/MK3.9/MK3.5)
                      • How to replace a Heatbed Thermistor (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)
                      • Print surface preparation
                      • How to replace xLCD (MK4/MK3.9/MK3.5)
                      • Regular printer maintenance (MK3.5/S)
                      • How to use accelerometer (MK3.5/S)
                      • Maintenance warning #31117 (CORE One) #26117 (MK4S) #13117 (MK4) #27117 (MK3.9S) #21117 (MK3.9) #28117 (MK3.5S) #23117 (MK3.5)
                      • How to replace a heatbreak/heatsink/heaterblock (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)
                      • How to replace a PTFE tube (MK3/MK2.5)
                      • How to trim PTFE tube - Multi Material
                      • Cold pull (MK3/S/+, MK2.5/S, MK3.5/S)
                      • How to post-process the printed parts
                      • How to replace a heatbed thermistor (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MK2S)
                      • How to replace PSU on MK3 printers
                      • How to replace a hotend PTFE tube (MK3S+/MK3S/MK2.5S/MMU2S)
                      • How to replace a hotend thermistor (MK2S)
                      • How to trim PTFE tube - Original Prusa printers
                      • Maintenance tips
                      • Replacing the PEI sheet on the (MK3S/MK3/MK2.5S/MK2.5)
                      • MK3 Series Hotend Guide
                    • 3D models
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                  7 comments

                  Log in  to post a comment
                  Jeff
                  •
                  Thank you for this - it was exactly my problem. Spent a couple days searching for a clog that wasn't there and was starting to suspect the gears. When I saw "false clog" in this article I figured this was the issue. It turned out the grub screw had loosened up - as soon as I realigned things and tightened up the screw I was back in business. Great work!
                  Reply
                  Mark Gebert
                  •
                  Two years of flawless operation and then I had underextrusion that I initially assumed was nozzle clogging. After two cold pulls and an inability to perform  first layer calibrations consistently, I looked at the Bondtech gears and saw the gear was misaligned with the small set screw not tight causing it to spin under stress.  I initially could not rotate the gear into proper alignment so I loosened the small set screw which then allowed rotation and proper alignment.   Be careful not to completely unscrew that small set screw like I did because when it falls, it is very difficult to find because it's tiny.
                  Reply
                  Inverse
                  •
                  The article helped me pinpoint quite a vicious problem. The Extruder idler Gear and its needle bearing rest on their own shaft which is pressure-fit in the holding holes of the extruder idler door. It happens that this little shaft slipped out of one of the holes, and therefore the bondtech gears began pushing the filament intermittently due to not engaging it during part of the rotation. This led to underextrusions that I attributed first to heat creep and then to a partially clogged nozzle. Of course nothing seemd to fix the matter, I even  pulled the most clean most perfect cold pull ever and that left me baffled. NEVER I would have thought it could be the gears until I manually pushed a piece of cleaning filament through the gears with the tensioning screw fully closed. And it slipped in with very little resistance. The moment I opened the idler door, the ultimate cause of my problems became clear.
                  Reply
                  Atreides
                  •
                  Ultimately none of these steps seemed to help me. Eventually I removed the Fitting QSM-M5 on the extruder, and the printed out "pyramid piece " and was able to guide the PLA into the gears which triggered AUTO filament loading. I then resecured the 2 peices. Not sure what was up, seemed clean. Just seemed like there was a small ammount of filament or something I could not see that I had to break through. Hope this helps someone.
                  Reply
                  Sandrine P
                  •
                  Thanks for this great and clear support. I've had my printer for one year, and all of a sudden, in the middle of a print, no filament is coming through anymore. 😱 I tried all the clogging's tutorials but nothing was stuck in there. And the filament didn't load anymore either. But I could see the axe (next to the QR code on the head) turning though. Thanks to the faq I ended up here. It's now fully functional and ready to make my craziest ideas real :)
                  Reply