Unpacking an assembled i3 printer

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Congratulations on your new assembled Original Prusa printer. For any first-time users, we have prepared this article and video for you who are just starting out with a Prusa 3D printer.

Unpacking the printer

• Remove the "shipping helpers" (large foam pads) - The extruder and bed are secured by specially cut foam pads to secure these components during shipping. Remove them in this order:
  • 1. Remove the top piece.
    2. Lift the printer out of the bottom piece (you can hold it by the frame).
    3. Pull out the middle piece of foam, securing the extruder.
• Remove the test print from the Flexible steel sheet.
• Get out the Handbook and Gummy bears and get ready!

Familiarize yourself with the accessories

• USB cable - For updating the firmware of the printer.
• Spare screws bag - In case of updates or repairs.
• SD card - For loading G-codes to the printer. Comes pre-loaded with test prints.
• IPA wipes - To clean the flexible steel sheet. 
• Acupuncture needle - Can be helpful when resolving a clog.
• Glue stick - Mainly as a protective separation layer for some filaments, like PETG or Polycarbonate (PC). Should not be necessary when printing PLA.
• Tools 
  • • Needle-nose Pliers
    • Screwdriver
    • Allen keys

Calibrations

An assembled printer is already calibrated so that you could start printing right out of the box. However, to account for any bumps the printer might have seen in transit to you, the printer will take you through the Z calibration the first time you start it up. This moves the X-axis to the top, pressing against the top of each Z-axis, to make sure it is the same on both sides.

This should be all the calibration necessary to start printing. However, different types of filament can act in different ways. You therefore should be aware of a couple of things.

• The First Layer Calibration - Having the initial layer of your print too low or too high can cause issues with adhesion to the build plate or artifact/imperfection in your print. The nozzle can even clog if set too close. See our article on how exactly your first layer should look.
• Idler screw tension - The idler screw should generally be set so its head is about flush with the plastic part. However, some filaments, like flexible filaments, require this screw to be very loose. Moreover, if this screw is tightened all the way in, it can cause the motor pulling the filament to overexert itself. For more info see Idler screw tension.

Handbook

All of our printers come with an instructional Handbook. This is not merely a collection of tips and tricks but is the instruction manual for your machine. They cover everything in regards to your printer, from setup, calibration, slicing, printing, and troubleshooting. Even if you are not new to 3D printing we advise you to read this thoroughly. All handbooks are available in a wide range of languages.