⬢Use the cardboard and place the back of the printer on it. Make sure the PSU power button isn't touching anything.
⬢Gently pull the cables out and place zip tie around them near the right edge of the circular opening.
⬢Use another zip tie on the other side.
⬢Put the cable bundle back inside the printer, make sure it is all the way back and won't interfere with the UV LED, which will be mounted to the circular opening in the upcoming steps.
That is all for now regarding the cable management, we will continue later on in this chapter.
WARNING: After you remove the cover from the UV LED, please avoid touching the diodes. Any dirt or grease on the surface might result in print artefacts.
⬢UV LED is protected with a plastic cover. To remove it, push it down, then pull slightly in the indicated direction and remove it.
While connecting the UV LED cable proceed carefully. The cooling fins are sharp, you can hurt yourself.
⬢Connect the UV LED cable. Make sure the safety pin on the connector "clicks" in the UV LED.
⬢Check all the wires are all the way in the connector.
⬢Connect the UV LED fan cable extension. Make sure both cables are properly connected.
⬢Lay the printer on its right side to get access to the bottom part. The rear part is facing to the left.
⬢Before you insert the UV LED assembly in the printer, insert both cables and align them to the back.
⬢Slide the assembly up with the cables facing to the back and secure it using M3x5b countersunk screws. Tighten on a diagonal to ensure proper seating of the assembly.
Make sure the cables are facing to the back of the printer and no wire is pinched.
⬢Place the electronics closer to the left side of the printer so that the Wi-Fi and speaker cables can reach the connectors. Avoid stretching the cables!
⬢Guide the Wi-Fi cable inside the printer between the electronics holder and the support, then connect it to the board.
⬢Guide the speaker cable inside the printer between the electronics holder and the support, then connect it to the board. Black wire must be on the left!
Make sure the Wi-Fi connector is properly connected. Lightly press the connector into the board with your finger. You will feel a slight "click".
⬢Before you move to the next step, please ensure you have removed the blue protective film from the thermal pad, otherwise, the cooling system won't work properly.
⬢Insert the board inside the printer and secure it with the M3x5 screws. Tighten them carefully!
Avoid using holes in the top right corner. We will use them later on.
⬢While tightening screws on the right side, hold the steel sheet.
⬢After both boards are secured, insert and tighten the M3x5 screw in the lower right corner. Be careful, you might damage the electronics if your tool slips.
⬢Tip: if needed for more convenient installation, you can lay the printer on the right side, but make sure no wire is pinched or any part deformed.
⬢After both boards are secured, insert and tighten the M3x5 screw in the lower right corner. Be careful, you might damage the electronics if your tool slips.
Tip: For more convenient installation, you can also lay the printer on its right side, but make sure no wire is pinched or any part deformed.
⬢Let's connect the cables to the electronics. Start in the bottom and proceed "clockwise" according to the instructions. Some ports will remain unused, also don't remove any jumpers from the board. Don't peel the RED sticker off.
Proceed carefully, some cables and connectors are fragile and you might damage them.
⬢Slide the cover on the printer and secure it on one side using two M3x5b countersunk screws. Don't tighten them firmly and move on the other side, repeat the procedure.
⬢As soon as the cover is aligned and partly secured, add the remaining screws and tighten them all.
Tighten carefully, if you can't reach the holes in the printer, realign the cover.
WARNING: the following procedure is crucial. Make sure you read the instructions first! The FEP film consists of three layers. Two layers are for the protection of the middle layer, which is the actual FEP film.
⬢Separate all layers slightly apart to recognise them:
⬢Semi-thick outer layer (protection)
⬢Thick inner layer (FEP film)
⬢Thin outer layer (protection)
⬢FIRST, remove completely the SEMI-THICK outer layer. Make sure all the circular holes are free of the remains of the film.
⬢Only after you have successfully removed the thick layer and the "circular" remains, remove the THIN outer layer.
⬢You should end up with the middle layer, which is without both outer layers. Also, double-check you have removed all the remains.
⬢Place the frame with the film and screws on the tank and start tightening M4x8rt screws with the Torx tool. Follow the indicated direction, tighten one by one. Screw them only halfway in!
⬢Reseat the parts if needed and tighten the screws, this time just near the surface.
Final tightening of the screws, but BE CAREFUL. If the Torx tool slips, you might damage your FEP film.
Pro tip: Turn the tank upside down to its "normal position" and fill it with tap water to its max level. Watch the tank and ensure no water is leaking.
Make sure you won't drop the hinges during the assembly. You can use any fabric to protect the FEP film and the print display below the hinges.
⬢Open the hinge and place it on the top of the printer.
⬢準備したM4x8b皿ネジで各ヒンジを固定します。
⬢Slide the lid all the way in and tighten the screws in the hinges to secure it (use 4mm Allen key). Don't over-tighten the screws or you might crack the lid.
⬢Try closing the lid, in case you will find any significant gap, reseat the cover or the hinges.
⬢Slide the print platform back in and secure it using the knob.
⬢The platform is now still able to move (wobble on the cantilever), it is ok. Final tightening will be done during the calibration process by adjusting the marked screw(s).
⬢...and it's done! Great job ;) Your Original Prusa SL1 is fully assembled.
⬢Follow the next chapter to calibrate the printer and run first print 5. Preflight check
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